Miyajima to Hiroshima

We're in Hiroshima now and again, we're behind on our blogging as we didn't have internet connection yesterday in Miyajima. Miyajima is an island located near Hiroshima and was a perfect break from the city life of Japan. We stayed at Iwaso ryokan - a traditional Japanese inn. They serve a kaiseki dinner in your room and we slept on futons which they lay out for you at night in your room. We took the cable car to the top of Mount Misen and then had the bright idea of walking down. Now, it sounds easy enough to walk down a mountain - for God's sake, we're Canadian, how hard could it be. But being that it's a mountain in Japan visited by many tourists, they had stairs built pretty much all the way down the 553 meter mountain and we all discovered that it's easier on the legs to walk down a path then hundreds of steps made of rock. Not that we should complain as we saw a Swiss or Austrian family, with little kids, walking up. We assumed they were Swiss or Austrian because frankly, who else would even think of walking up and looking like they were out for a leisurely stroll.

Unfortunately, I caught a head cold and was coughing and wheezing and disturbing my roommate throughout the night as I was so stuffed up. A floor is a hard place to sleep when you're feeling like crap. It meant that I had to spend the afternoon today, napping in my hotel room after drugging myself, while the others went to the Peace Memorial Park and Museum in Hiroshima. I think it was quite draining for them - it is a very emotional journey as you learn about the dropping of the atomic bomb, the after effects and the rebuilding of the city. Tomorrow, we are off to Kobe as we head into the last few days of our vacation. So far, we have managed to have a good time without having to vote anyone in our group off the island.

Tokyo - Dave's post for April 22

I guess it's time for me to step up to the plate since I haven't posted any thoughts yet. Where to begin - Japan definitely stimulates all the senses. We stayed in Shibuya in Tokyo and it's quite frenetic - looks of activity at all times of the day. Although our hotel was tucked away on a little side street so it was more toned down than the surroundings in the immediate vicinity. Conversely, looking out on to the landscaped grounds and Lake Ashi from our rooms at Hotel de Yama was so serene and peaceful. In terms of sounds, the subway and JR stations each have their own unique songs, some of them are quite catchy. When we're not in transit Paul has serenaded us with his rendetions of songs from every era ... and language. I think he's gearing up for our night of Karaoke. In terms of smells, there have been several meals that were not only very tasty but they were very aromatic as well. Yuki has already mentioned last night's tasting menu dinner but she failed to mention that she saved me from a potentially severe allergic reaction. One of the dishes had a dumpling with clams inside; it would have a been a very unpleasant evening if she hadn't noticed it and warned me in time.
Another item I feel compelled to talk about is cost/value. I was under the impression that Japan would be extremely expensive but that is definitely not the case. Everything from meals to subway tickets to shopping to beverages ($3.00 beer in the mininar!) - has been very reasonable and I'm considerably under budget at this stage of the trip. So if you think you need to save up for years in order to travel to and enjoy Japan don't give it a second thought but it's not the case.
Excited to see Osaka and the next phase of our journey. P.S. Apparently I smile a lot in pictures.

Tokyo - Craig's post for April 22

Ok, call me a dork, but today I'm very excited. Today's journey from Hakone to Osaka is via the Shinkansen - Japan's infamous bullet-trains that are capable of reaching speeds in excess of 300 km/h. It was pretty amazing to watch other Shinkansen speed past our platform - I reached for my camera when I saw the first one coming from a distance, but it was alredy gone by the time I got my camera out of it's case.
Overall, travelling through Japan has been a very pleasurable experience... though I must say that I did feel a bit overwhelmed when I first looked at the maps for the Tokyo subway and "JR" rail lines. I've seen pictures of the Tokyo subway routes on the internet, but standing in front of the giant map, trying to figure out how to get to your destination (or for that matter, even trying to find your destination on the map) is a whole other game.
When a train or subway is scheduled to leave at 12:04, it leaves at 12:04. Not 12:03, not 12:05, but 12:04. Oh, and get this... the ticket collectors are pleasant, engaged, and even stay awake during their shift!! We all agree - riding the TTC in Toronto is going to be even more painful after having experienced public transit in Tokyo.
And here I thought that I couldn't possibly have any more disdain for the TTC...

Everyones Family Has Their Quirks

It was a beautiful sunny and goreous Sunday in Osaka. While some of the others went to Osaka castle, I enjoyed a restful (read: not using my feet) morning. We went over to Namba Park malls near the hotel, which was a fantastic shopping experience and then we enjoyed an outdoor lunch (unusual in Osaka) of hamburgers, which came just at the right time for our North American sensibilities. Now we can make it another week on Japanese food no problem.

In the evening ee went to have dinner with Yuki's father's family. What a gracious and delightful bunch of folks. They invited us into their home which was experience enough.

One of Yuki's cousins took us to Panchinko which is Japanese slot machines on crack. The noise was beyond description. It was quite fun and something Craig has always been interested in. The sensory overload made it a short stay but full of excitement.

Then we went around the corner for dinner and about 27 people showed up. None of them spoke English so Yuki, with help from Craig, had to do a lot work, but we all had a really lovely time. Especially Paul who they kept calling "Movie Star" because THEY thought he looks like Keiffer Sutherland. Hmmmmmm.

Tomorrow we move on from Osaka for Miyajima and an authentic ryokan experience.

We saw Mount Fuji

From our hotel room terrace at the Hotel de Yama in Hakone.

Some more photos

The shrimp that Paul mentions below - while they were still alive.

Sushi is served right on the counter ...

Before having lots of sake and beer.

In Kyoto ...

My birthplace

We are now in my birthplace, Osaka, and now I am catching up with my Japanese friends and family. I had dinner with Hidemi and Naoko and their families yesterday. It was great to see Naoko after her years living in Singapore and we missed seeing her on our last trip to Japan. I have a checklist of food items that I must have while I'm in the Kansai area - have checked nikuman and takoyaki off the list now. I haven't been able to convince the others that okonomiyaki really is better than it looks in a picture. Maybe I'll have to go for a late night snack on my own. But I think I've realized that it is possible to have too much sushi and sashimi. My stomach was rebelling against me last night and I was having dreams about too much sushi - my subconscious is trying to tell me something.

Went to Nara yesterday and prayed to the great Buddha. Again there were lots of school children but as far as I know, none of the students asked the others to help them practice their English. No one asks me for impromptu English conversation - sigh.

We had some crazy lady on the train tell us to talk in "small voices". Initially, I thought she was being rude to the gaijin but then we later saw her relaying a similar message to other people who got on the train who she thought were talking too loudly. Mind you, she was also plugging her ears every time another train went by with a loud noise. There was another lady that sat down right beside Cathy (even though there was lots of room otherwise) and literally stared at us, up and down, like we had landed from space. I thought for sure we must have been on the train line that had it's own "Queen West Mental Health Centre" (or CAMH or whatever it's called now). I think they needed to pray to the great Buddha.

Going to visit with my dad's family today. They are always good for a laugh or two - because they are so "Yamada" or like our father. At least they don't expect us to be "proper Japanese" - I guess our family has always been a bit of a novelty to them - their crazy Canadian cousins. I'm sure all of their friends and neighbours can't share those sort of stories with them.

Sorry for the delay in posting folks but we are back! After a great experience in Hakone, the rain came on the most appropriate day, a travel day! Took the train in to Osaka and we are staying on the Executive floor of the Swissotel Nankai Osaka... very nice.

Have done side day trips to Kyoto and Nara to see... you guessed it, Temples! There are not as many as churches in Europe, but close. Seriously amazing structures.

The food has been amazing. We went for THE BEST Sushi experience of our lives on friday. Very authentic right down to the couple next to us, a 50 yr old business man and his younger than that lady friend, smoking in between bites of their meal! We actually had raw shrimp that were so fresh that they were literally still moving in our mouths. His little tail was flapping against my bottom lip as I was chewing! We later ate his fried head to complete the experience!

One more day in Osaka and then off to Miyajima to stay in a traditional Ryokan.

The adventure continues...

Why can't we be civil to one another too?

As we travel through Japan and start to notice more and more about the country and its people, one thing becomes very apparent - the culture shock is not in coming TO Japan, it will occur when we leave this country of civilized, beautiful people and go home to Toronto. Let me illustrate this point through some observations.
The service at every touchpoint is outstanding. The subway is clean, doesn't smell like urine and the workers are friendly. There are very few trash cans here. While in TO we come to expect one (overflowing and dirty beyond reason) every 15 feet. Here - not so much. And its the cleanest place I've ever been. The people do not eat and walk, drink and walk, or otherwise generate garbage while mobile.
Every detail is thought of in advance. Even in our hotel last night, we enjoyed mirrors that have a "no fog" area - right where you would expect it. Its as if, while you were in the shower, a nice Japanese person came in and cleaned off your mirror for you. It would not be beyond reason to assume that.

Even when you need directions you can stop in to a little kiosk holding a police man and he will not only bow and offer you kind directions with thoughtful advice and gentle hand gestures, but he will produce a helpful map for you take away.

Seriously? We have to go back to Toronto? Really?

Hakone and Mount Fuji

There is so much to say about our time in Hakone. It was as if the gods that we prayed to at the temples in Tokyo were looking out for us. The weather was great, we had seats at the very front of the Odakyu Romancecar to Hakone and Mount Fuji appeared out of the clouds for us while we were cruising on Lake Ashi. We could even see the top of Mount Fuji from our hotel room terrace. We stayed at the Hotel de Yama in Hakone and it was a terrific hotel. The highlight, other than Mount Fuji, was our Japanese dinner. Again, it didn't help that I couldn't read the kanji menu but we had a 9-course dinner which was very pretty and yummy. Every dish was presented oh so perfectly and the servers were so very patient when we asked dumb questions about what we were eating. I did get a copy of the menu to take home to my mother so that she can tell us exactly what we had. Craig and Kathi had a sake-sampler which I believed they enjoyed quite thoroughly.

Tuesday, April 20

Its all about the knives. First thing this morning we headed out to Asakusa in Tokyo, which was a bit of a hike on the subway, but we always manage to have a few laughs along the way. We were without Jetlag Cathy as she has come to be known.

Once there we enjoyed wandering by all the restaurant supply stores and finally settled on a great store filled with fabulous "chef quality" knives. I think all of bought something special. Except for Paul who is special on his own.

We spent the rest of the day shopping and having some nice coffee breaks. It was raining which was too bad, but really.....who cares. We're in Tokyo.

We stopped by Tsukiji - the famous fish market that supplies - um, fish. We viewed some sea born things that I hope I never have the occassion to eat, but I am certain that the Japanese love. We stopped in for a sushi lunch (once again - Yuki's bright idea). Likely the best, freshest sushi we have ever eaten. I for one enjoyed some tuna that melted like butter. It was fabulous. I know the others enjoyed it as well because they are all smiled a great deal. (may have been the sake).

Tomorrow - another day. Can't wait!

In Kamakura

The Boys being Zen-like.

What time is it?

Haven't been able to sleep past 5:00AM so I'm so tired by 10:00PM at night. I have nothing much to do except organize my room and play online til it's time for breakfast. Well, it's shopping day today - how exciting. I wonder if the others are awake yet? Likely Paul is out on his morning walk already - unless he drank too much with his friend Edouard last night. He's the first one to venture out on his own in Tokyo .... LOL.

In Tokyo

We're sitting in my room at the Tokyu Stay Hotel in Shibuya having a drink before we head out to dinner. We toured around Tokyo yesterday in Ginza, Asakusa, Tokyo Tower, etc. One thing I couldn't figure out - we went up the Tokyo Tower to the observation deck and there was Braille information plaques up there. So why would you go up the Tokyo Tower if you were visually impaired? And they have a conehead mascot named Noppon? Really ... does a tower require a mascot?

Today we went to Kamakura and visited a couple of temples and the Great Buddha. We also had an excellent lunch at a udon restaurant in Kamakura. Just like the Japanese tours that come to Canada and do power sightseeing tours of Niagara Falls, Banff and Vancouver - our sightseeing seems similar. Well, when a few of us were in Italy there was only so much "Jesus art" we could handle, we can only handle so many temples in one day.

As much fun as these guys are to travel with, they're starting to ask me stupid questions. There was Braille written on Craig's beer can and he asks what does this say? Truly - I can't know everything. And every time I can't read some kanji on a sign, they bug me because I can speak the language but I can't read everything. They don't seem to get the concept. I think that travelling with Emma, Kloe and Kaiya may have been slightly easier ... LOL.

Heading to Harajuku tonight to see the crazy girls dressed funny. We've decided that we might all move to Tokyo and find new jobs. We're bored of life in Toronto ....

Tokyo Eve

I will take this chance to insert a little pre-trip excitement. Yuki is under the weather today and everyone has to work up to the last minute. I am fortunate to not have that distraction right now so I'm happy to fill in.....

YIPPPEEEE. We are leaving tomorrow. The bags are packed, the online check in with Air Canada works like a charm and all the details are looked after - or will be soon. Its go time people. Hurry up and rush to the airport so we can get on our plane and watch movies!

Awesome that we have connections though. Our seating arrangements look mighty fine, thanks Mark. And the good news came that we might be upgraded in Osaka. Thank you David.

We don't have a hotel booked in Kobe. We've decided to throw caution to the wind and live on the edge (knowing full well that we can avail ourselves of the concierge at the Swissotel in Osaka if it gets too close for comfort.

And they're off................

Monday dawns bright and sunny and I woke up with the sudden realization that there is a lot to do before I go away. I suppose I am the most high maintenance IN THE PREP DEPT. (only) because I chose to abandon the jet setter lifestyle last year and now have to think about a house and a puppy that are staying behind! Trust me - a condo/townhouse, no pet, no plant lifestyle is way better for extended absences!

Looking forward to seeing a country with a native (Yuki) who can take us places that travellers may not get to, and can tell us tips and tricks along the way! Hope the weather is as good there as it is here!

4 more sleeps

Kathi hosted us for brunch today so we can get together and get hyped about our upcoming trip. It was a great brunch on a beautiful sunny day. Of course, Paul had to lay down some ground rules and expectations. Kathi learned to convert into Canandian dollars from Japanese yen. Will we survive 2 weeks together without killing each other?? Paul refuses to go to the airport earlier than absolutely necessary. I keep warning him about the crazy Asian travellers who pack too much into their suitcases and take extra time at check-in :) He'll learn soon enough.